As part of Ramzan celebrations, we decided to sample the flavours of one of the oldest street food markets in New Delhi. The bustling lanes of Old Delhi display diversity. We walked through Matia Mahal, the road opposite Jama Masjid Gate No.1 to discover various moods and characteristics unknown. The aroma of fuming kebabs and fried chicken will take you places while your eyes feast on stacks of vermicelli, dates and breads sold in street stalls. The medley of cultural influences is richer than the food served. Till you get here and indulge, you really don’t know what you’re missing.
Sutli Kebabs at Lalu’s and Qureshi’s
Star here. With Jama Masjid in the backdrop, the outer lane (Urdu Bazaar Road) is lit up with kebab shops. You’ll find one every 10 meters but we’d say you hit Lalu’s and Qureshi’s first. The slender and juicy kebabs are served hot off the griddle and put you in the mood. These are the softest kebabs that you’ll find and full of flavour.
Address: Urdu Bazaar Road. Lalu’s is one of the first kebab shops that you’ll see. For Qureshi’s walk further down the same road.
Haji Mohammad Hussain’s
Turn left right opposite Gate No. 1 to enter Matia Mahal and head straight to Haji Mohammad Hussain’s. At Haji Mohammad, try the Fried Chicken. Juicy bits of chicken are marinated in spices, coated with chickpea flour and fried golden. The crispy texture with moist insides has won many hearts. It is served with a red chutney that can put your mouth on fire. During Ramzan, they also serve Keema Golis (minced meat rounds served with onions). If you reach here around Iftar time, you’ll manage to get your hands on them.
Address: 113, Bazar Matia Mahal, Jama Masjid.
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Cool Point
I’ve always believed in dessert first and when you come across those large platters beautifully decorated with Shahi Tukda or Matka Phirni you know you can’t resist. We just couldn’t get enough of the Shahi Tukda and were tempted to come back for round two. Golden fried slices of bread simmered in milk and topped with khoya and desi ghee made our lips curl into a smile every time we tucked in a bite. Words can’t do justice.
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Address: 973, Bazar Matia Mahal, Jama Masjid.
Beef Nihari at Bilal
The Nihari at Bilal is so sublime that is absolutely worth elbowing your way to get here. Don’t even think of wriggling out of the tasting trail without getting yourself a plateful of Nihari with Moti Roti. The meat is slow-cooked for hours which makes it delicate and tender. It is then simmered in gravy with spices and garnished with a squeeze of lime and green chillies. It was polished off in a matter of minutes. We’ll say no more, you have to go and experience yourself.
Address: Right Opposite Cool Point
Aslam Chicken Corner
Your next stop should be Aslam Chicken Corner. The chicken tikka served here, bathed in butter, is a work of art. To watch them grill those plump chicken chunks marinated with spices and then generously drizzle simmering hot butter along with tangy curd is absolutely overwhelming. The results come close to heaven.
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Address: 540, BazaarMatia Mahal, Jama Masjid.
Nawab Qureshi’s Pyaar Mohabbat Maza
Originally from Uttar Pradesh, you’ll find his food carts dotted across the lane selling a blush pink drink popularly called ‘Pyaar Mohabbat Maza’. This refreshing concoction is a mix of watermelon, milk and Rooh Afza. It’s fragrant and chunks of fresh fruit make it come alive, just what we needed to refuel.
Gud ka Sharbat at Pahadi Imli
This one was a real gem. Jaggery is soaked in water, strained and served as a chilled drink. So simple yet lovely. Owner Akhil Ahmed shared that the drink is being sold since 1947. It is kept in a large pot with a block of ice. He uses a brass spoon to mix the two which is known to be as old as the shop itself!
Address: Corner of Pahadi Imli, Chitli Qabar
Babu Bhai Ke Kebab
This place is hard to miss if not for the crowd around it. It is famous for Dori Kebab and Boti Kebab. Run by two brothers, you can watch their practiced hands grab some spiced meat paste, wrap it around skewers with thread and the let them grill over charcoal, almost effortlessly. The Dori Kebabs melt in your mouth and are addictive while the Boti Kebabs are crisp and spicy.
Address: 1465-B, Near Masjid Sayed Rafai, Bazar Chitli Qaba
Biryani at Mota Pehelwaan and Dilpasand (Mohammad Taufeeq)
Head here for some serious feasting. Pieces of meat are cooked for hours along with saffron flavoured rice; your food trail will be incomplete without tasting some biryani. The Mirchi Masala Biryani is a must try at Mota Pehelwaan. Dilpasand has been praised for its Achaari Biryanis.
Address: Dilpasand Biryani -735, Haveli Azam Khan, Chitli Qabar
Mota Pehelwaan – Shop no. 701, Haveli Azam Khan, Chitli Qabar
10. Karim’s and Al Jawahar
If you’re a brave heart, wrap up with some kebabs and biryani at Al Jawahar or Mutton Korma made in pure desighee at Karim’s. As time passes, the crowd swells. These iconic restaurants are great options for a sit-down meal if you don’t feel like being adventurous. It was about 10pm when we left and the streets were just about waking up for a night of feasting.
American Writer, Kurt Vonnegut once said, “You can’t just eat good food. You’ve got to talk about it too.” If we’ve missed any of your favourites, don’t forget to share.
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